Alma Mahler caught my eye in the Pyrenees during the illegal crossing of the French-Spanish border. Not so much she as her luggage - a dozen suitcases!
Naturally, a woman! - I thought.
And it was so ...
From 1929, Alma was married to Franz Werfel, a popular German writer.
In 1938, after the Anschluss of Austria, Werfel, who was Jewish, fled with his wife to France. Anticipating the worst they applied for a visa to the USA. Received it with ease thanks to the intercession of Thomas Mann, who enjoyed great sympathy and trust of Eleanor Roosevelt and helped to arrange visas for hundreds of German intellectuals and artists.
Anticipating the best they were very slow to leave for the United States until 1940 when France was invaded by Germany. Then it was too late. They could not get out of France legally, because they did not have an exit visa, and application of such a visa would end with being handed to Germans.
They were hiding in Lourdes, close to the Spanish border, where Franz Werfel got familiarized with story of Bernadette Soubirous - a girl, to whom the Blessed Virgin appeared. Then he made a vow that if he can successfully get out of France, he will write a book about this divine revelation.
In 1938, after the Anschluss of Austria, Werfel, who was Jewish, fled with his wife to France. Anticipating the worst they applied for a visa to the USA. Received it with ease thanks to the intercession of Thomas Mann, who enjoyed great sympathy and trust of Eleanor Roosevelt and helped to arrange visas for hundreds of German intellectuals and artists.
Anticipating the best they were very slow to leave for the United States until 1940 when France was invaded by Germany. Then it was too late. They could not get out of France legally, because they did not have an exit visa, and application of such a visa would end with being handed to Germans.
They were hiding in Lourdes, close to the Spanish border, where Franz Werfel got familiarized with story of Bernadette Soubirous - a girl, to whom the Blessed Virgin appeared. Then he made a vow that if he can successfully get out of France, he will write a book about this divine revelation.
After a few weeks Werfel intermediaries established contact with an associate of the American consulate in Marseille, journalist Varian Fry, who was just organizing the transfer to Spain of the family of Thomas Mann - son Golo, brother Henry and his wife Nelly. Werfels joined them. Arrived by train from Marseille to Cerbere station just before the Spanish border. Border station Cerbere - how appropriate is the name!
Five refugees went with a guide on foot, and Varian Fry travelled by train to Spain legally.
Hiking through the mountains was not easy. They had to climb to a height of 2000 m, which with obesity Franz Werfel and the poor condition of Heinrich Mann was no mean task.
Varian Fry had all reasons to be afraid of customs inspection - 17 suitcases. 12 suitcases belonged to Alma. She claimed that the suitcases contained things absolutely necessary - manuscripts scores by Gustav Mahler, Bruckner symphonies manuscripts, works of her husband and a bit of her wardrobe. Wicked people claim that all sketches, musical scores and manuscripts occupied only one suitcase.
Varian Fry had all reasons to be afraid of customs inspection - 17 suitcases. 12 suitcases belonged to Alma. She claimed that the suitcases contained things absolutely necessary - manuscripts scores by Gustav Mahler, Bruckner symphonies manuscripts, works of her husband and a bit of her wardrobe. Wicked people claim that all sketches, musical scores and manuscripts occupied only one suitcase.
They met in Portbou - the first station on Spanish side. Varian Fry returned to Marseilles, and they went on by train to Madrid and Lufthansa plane to Lisbon. Escape from the Germans on Lufthansa plane? Why not, in those days it was possible to travel incognito. After one month stay in Lisbon they sailed to New York. They were welcomed by Klaus Mann, son of Thomas, who in a letter to his father mentioned that all refugees were in good shape, but Alma looked like a dethroned queen.
Franz Werfel fulfilled his vow - the book Song of Bernadette - CLICK - and the film ensured him prosperity for the rest of his life.
Note: Varian Fry helped to smuggle some 2,200 refugees from Germany - CLICK.
My next encounter with Alma was in an unexpected place - the fictional Tel Kedar settlement in the Negev desert ...
"Between the news they broadcast a program about the life and loves of Alma Mahler. Moderator said that the world of men has not been able to understand her and see her for someone else, and then told who really Alma Mahler was. I turned her off in mid-sentence to confirm that the world of men has not changed for the better." - Amos Oz - Do not say night.
Note: Varian Fry helped to smuggle some 2,200 refugees from Germany - CLICK.
My next encounter with Alma was in an unexpected place - the fictional Tel Kedar settlement in the Negev desert ...
"Between the news they broadcast a program about the life and loves of Alma Mahler. Moderator said that the world of men has not been able to understand her and see her for someone else, and then told who really Alma Mahler was. I turned her off in mid-sentence to confirm that the world of men has not changed for the better." - Amos Oz - Do not say night.
Fact, they did not change. Tom Lehrer's song - And the loveliest girl in Vienna was Alma - is a good proof...
Gustav, Walter and Franz - were husbands of Alma - Gustav Mahler, Walter Gropius and Franz Werfel. And in between, sometimes in parallel, life of Alma was filled with contacts with many famous artists.
I'm not trying to understand Alma Mahler. I even do not want to understand her. This allows me to contemplate her and her surroundings sometimes with admiration, sometimes with horror, but always with mindless fascination.
To be continued.
Bibliography:
Evelyn Juers - House of Exile - CLICK - a wonderful book - a treasure trove of information about artists and intellectuals fled from Nazi Germany.
Françoise Giroud - The art of being loved - CLICK.
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